Virginia Outdoor Adventures: Hiking, Camping, Kayaking, Local Travel and more!

Scenic Hikes in Southwest Virginia: Breaks Park and Pine Mountain Trail (Ep 61, Part 1)

Virginia Outdoor Adventures Podcast Season 5

Get ready to uncover the hidden gems of Southwest Virginia's scenic hiking destinations. Tyler Mullins of the Pine Mountain Trail Conference, takes us on a journey highlighting the must-do trails of Breaks Park set against the majestic Russell Fork Gorge. Then it’s on to the lesser-known but equally captivating Pine Mountain Scenic Trail that weaves along the Virginia-Kentucky border.

 

In Part 1 of this two-part series, Tyler entices us with trails inside Breaks Park that include awe-inspiring sandstone cliffs, unique rock formations, serene lakes, and stunning vistas. 

 

Tune in next week as Tyler continues our journey on the Pine Mountain Trail. This developing long-distance path offers unique opportunities for solitude and scenic beauty away from the crowds. We discuss the mesmerizing Jenny Falls, the panoramic 360-degree views from Birch Knob Fire Tower, and a unique ecosystem that makes this region a true outdoor paradise. Let’s Go!


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Breaks Interstate Park

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Mentioned in this Episode:

Breaks Interstate Park

Breaks Park Hiking Trails

Episode 55. Appalachia’s Greatest Conservation Story: Elk Restoration in Southwest in Virginia

Episode 31. Rock Climbing in Breaks Park and Southwest Virginia

Pine Mountain Trail Conference

Birch Knob Fire Tower

Pine Mountain Scenic Trail

Contact Tyler Mullins: tylermarkmullins@gmail.com

Fan Mail - Send Jessica a Text Message

Contact show host, Jessica Bowser:

jessica@virginiaoutdooradventures.com

Jessica Bowser:

Tyler, welcome to Virginia outdoor adventures.

Tyler:

Hey, Jessica, thanks for having me. I'm excited to be here.

Jessica Bowser:

What do you love about hiking in southwest Virginia?

Tyler:

There's a lot to love about hiking in southwest Virginia. I guess the good thing for me is this is home. I mean, I've grown up in southwest Virginia. Still live here. There's so many beautiful areas and great hiking opportunities in this area that outside of the region, you know, a lot of people don't know about got a lot of good day hikes. You've got opportunities for long distance backpacking. You've got waterfall hikes, hikes with great vistas. There's, there's a hike in southwest Virginia that's got something truly for everybody. So there's a lot to love about hiking in this region.

Jessica Bowser:

Do you have any favorite memories from breaks Park?

Tyler:

Oh, yes, absolutely, I would have to say that my love for hiking actually began at the breaks when I was young. My mom used to take me hiking over there all the time. So we would hike just all the different trails that are over there. And so that's really kind of what sparked my love for bidding outside and being out just kind of in the woods. We love going to the pool, the old pool, which isn't isn't there anymore, now that the water park and the new pool are there, but we loved going to the pool, eating at the restaurant. One of my favorite, more favorite recent memories, I guess, would be zip lining a few years ago, and we actually got my grandmother on the zip line with us. So that was, that was a great family experience. So have have a ton of memories from childhood up till now, of just great, great times at breaks Interstate Park.

Jessica Bowser:

I love the story of your grandmother being on the zip line. It breaks. Because I have done the zip line, it breaks. And I'm not like a roller coaster person, so I was super freaked out to do the zip line. And I cannot imagine your grandma on the zip line. How old was she when she did it? You

Tyler:

know, she was in her 70s. I don't remember exactly how old she was, and I think she was more fearless than any of us. She she loved it. She had a blast. She would probably have been ready to have jumped right back on it as soon as we got done. So, you know, all the rest of us were kind of hesitant. She jumped right in and so that was, that was a great day. I just had a blast watching her, more than anything.

Jessica Bowser:

I'll bet I mean, props to your grandmother, that is amazing. Good for her. Yeah, I'm really excited to talk about hiking at breaks Park, because breaks is hands down my favorite park in the entire Commonwealth of Virginia. I love everything about this park, and I really think that the hiking is truly spectacular and amazing. So I'm really excited to get to talk to you about the different hiking opportunities and share those opportunities with my listeners. So let's jump right into it. Can you start off by telling us a little bit about brakes Park?

Tyler:

Yeah, absolutely. So brakes Interstate Park is it's a joint park between the state of Kentucky and the state of Virginia. So it's right there on the border, far southwest Virginia and southeastern Kentucky. There's something that at the breaks park for everybody, even those people who hiking might not be there, their primary thing, you've got tons of hiking trails, which we'll get into, like you said here in a little bit. But you've also got, you've got, like we mentioned, zip lining. You've got their very popular Water Park and Pool, the pool that they just opened up this summer to go along with the water park. They've got elk tours. They've got opportunities for kayak rentals and boat rentals. There at the lake, there's truly something at the breaks for everybody, and all kinds of different lodging opportunities, ranging from cabins to camping. And then just the natural beauty of the area is just, is really just unmatched. You've got the gorge, and of course, within the park, you get all these different opportunities to view the gorge from from different vantage points. You've got the iconic towers that are there, and with the Russell fort, kind of bends around that you can see from several different points in the park, and then just looking down into the gorge itself, it's it's just a beautiful area that truly has something for everybody who visits.

Jessica Bowser:

That's a great description, and I'll just throw in that they also have really excellent rock climbing opportunities in the park as well. Yes, absolutely,

Tyler:

I'm not much of a rock climber. I've seen the routes, and it looks like something that would be awesome for somebody who's probably a little more sure footed than me,

Jessica Bowser:

yes, but rock climbing is great for beginners as well. And I'll just add that I have two other episodes about breaks. One of them is about rock climbing, and the other one is about the elk tours that you mentioned, too. So I will drop links to those two episodes in the show notes, so if anybody wants to learn more about those two opportunities and. Breaks. They can they can do that easily. So Tyler, what advice do you have for someone who's planning to hike? It breaks well.

Tyler:

So you know several things that somebody would want to think about before they plan to go out on a hike, and the big one is make sure that you know you've got a map, either getting one online from the park's website, or visiting the park lodge or visitor center and picking up a paper map. You know, make sure that you know your route, where you're planning on going. Make sure that somebody knows where you're going. Make sure that you've got water and snacks for however long you're going to be out. Make sure you got sturdy shoes. You know, within the park there are a lot of different trails that have rocky or steep sections, so you want to make sure you got to sturdy footwear. It's never, never a bad idea to keep a rain jacket handy, because you never know how the weather might turn. And then hiking stick or trick and poles is also good to have. And then I'll just make sure you allow yourself plenty of time, because you know, you never know when you might want to spend a little extra time on a trail or find another area to explore. And then, along with that, thinking about different leave no trace principles, the big thing is just, you know, respect the park. It's a beautiful area, so, you know, it's, it's always a shame to see things like people ride on railings or things like that. And you know, just a really, a really good idea to try to leave the park better than you found when you go out on the trails.

Jessica Bowser:

Yes, and I cannot emphasize enough all of those things that you just pointed out as far as how to be prepared, because we hear all the time that before you go out on a hike, you need to have the 10 essentials and how to be prepared, but some of the trails at breaks are really difficult. I mean, they are strenuous hiking conditions, and you are not going to make it if you only have one plastic water bottle with you, and you're not going to make it if you aren't in good hiking shoes. It's just it's especially important at the breaks, if you're on a difficult or strenuous trail, to really heed those warnings and make sure that you have done all of those things in advance, or you're going to find yourself in a world of hurt. Yes,

Tyler:

yes, absolutely. What's the saying? An ounce of prevention goes a long way. So you know being going into the woods prepared is is not only good for you, but it's good to keep also first responders or rescuers from having to come out and assist you on the trails. So absolutely,

Jessica Bowser:

and there is a variety of difficulty levels on the trails at break so that, like you said, there's something for everybody. There's easy trails, moderate trails, difficult and strenuous trails, and we're gonna talk about some of those. But real quick, do you happen to know how many trails or miles of trails are available in the park?

Tyler:

There are 18 different trails in the park. There are a lot of trails in the breaks, and all those trails kind of total up to be roughly about 17 miles worth of trail. There are tons of opportunities. And whatever kind of hike you're looking for, you can find it in the brakes.

Jessica Bowser:

Yeah, and I like that most of these trails connect to each other. So while some of them might be short and others a little bit longer, you can create whatever type of loop you want. And you could be hiking around the brakes literally all day, just going from one trail to the next? Yeah, absolutely.

Tyler:

And that's one thing I love to do is, you know, you can, kind of, like you said, create your own route, and you can really make your hike as short or as long as you want to.

Jessica Bowser:

Let's get into some of these individual hikes. I'm really excited about this part. You and I picked out a handful of hikes that we wanted to share. And what we did was we picked the trails that we thought really showcased some of the best features of the park and also would appeal to the majority of people. So we've got a variety of easy, moderate, difficult and strenuous hikes to share that I think people are really going to enjoy. So are you ready to do this? Tyler,

Tyler:

yes, let's jump in. Okay, so

Jessica Bowser:

let's start off with some of the easier ones. This is a really popular trail, and it's the Overlook trail. Can you tell us about the Overlook trail?

Tyler:

Yes, so the Overlook trail, like you mentioned, is hugely popular because, like its name, suggests you get some great overlooks, some great vistas from along this trail, and it's pretty easily accessible from a few different points along its routes. It's about three quarters of a mile. If you did like a round trip Python and out and back from end to end, it'd be about a mile and a half. And as far as difficulty level, we would probably be considered fairly easy. There's, there's not a whole lot of elevation change, but you know, this hike really provides one of the best opportunities to to really be able to experience just the vastness and the beauty of the gorge. From above, you can see out into the canyon. There's several difference and. Um, you know, overlook areas along the trail. You're walking right along, kind of the edge of the gorge throughout the length of the hike, and so you get a lot of impressive views. If you're an early riser, you can get some really beautiful views with the fog, kind of rolling up out of the gorge. Or if you go later in the afternoon, you can get some really beautiful sunsets. I've got a favorite kind of Sunset spot along that route that you can always you know, with with good weather, you can get great sunsets. It's a great trail. You do have to be careful, because, although you know, several of the overlooks do have railings, there are several sections that have beautiful views that don't have any kind of guard rails up for it, or anything like that. So you do have to be cautious with your footing. But it is. It is a great hike if somebody is looking to find a hike that's fairly easily accessible to get great views on.

Jessica Bowser:

Yeah, I think this, this trail is especially great for people who want to hike from one overlook to the next, because, as you mentioned in the beginning of this episode, there are several overlooks that you can easily walk to from a parking area, and this trail kind of connects several of those, so you can go from one to the next to the next. And it's something that people like to do that is not too hard. I think it probably is one of the more popular trails in the park.

Tyler:

Yeah, I think so too. And it's great for if you just want to pop on to get an overlook view and then pop back to your car, you've got that option too. So it's got a lot of versatility for people looking for great views into the gorge. The next

Jessica Bowser:

trail is the geologic trail. I don't know about you, Tyler, but I kind of feel like this is the must do trail at the brakes. Yeah,

Tyler:

I agree this. I kind of grew up on this trail. This is one that we hit all the time when I was younger, and I still love it just as much today. Like its name says, you get some really awesome rock formations along this trail, walking through slot canyons, having boulders kind of suspended up above you, wedged in between other rocks. So this, this trail just has some really great geology to be able to kind of view down into what's going on along the canyon wall. And it's also got, if for anybody who hikes that you'll notice markers, numbered markers along the trail. And so there's like a self guided interpretive height option with this trail, where you can pick up a height guide from the visitor center or access it online, and you can get you know information about different things that you're seeing along the trail as you go. And so, and it's not a very long trail. It's less than half a mile because of the rockiness of the trail, it would probably be considered more of a moderate difficulty trail, just because, not because of the length, and there's not a ton of elevation gain, but it is kind of technical in some areas because of because of the rockiness of it. But it is, it is a great, a great opportunity to kind of see how the different geology of the park kind of has has changed over many, many years. The very

Jessica Bowser:

first time I ever visited breaks, this was the first trail that I hiked, and I was absolutely blown away. I mean, I remember getting onto the trail and looking up at those huge sandstone cliffs and just thinking, like, where am I? I thought it was in some other world. I've never seen anything like it. And this is just so impressive, like you walk down this trail and you don't know where to look like you. You should be looking at the trail in front of you to make sure you know where you're putting your feet. But you can't help just stopping and and just staring up, because it's so amazing. It it makes you feel very small. I feel like because the sandstone cliffs are so huge and so impressive that you're just sort of, you feel like a little ant right next to them. I can never get over it. Like all the times that I visited the breaks, I never miss going down the geologic trail. And every time, I still have that same feeling when I go down this trail.

Tyler:

I feel the exact same way. It's it never ceases to amaze me. Like you said, looking at those cliffs, looking at the different boulders that have come down over time, it is. It's just a truly kind of awesome trail to be able to see just kind of how, how the park landscape has changed even from before it was a park over all those years of erosion and weathering. Yeah,

Jessica Bowser:

I can't wait to share some of the photos and videos that you and I took when you and I hiked this trail together in the park not too long ago, and I think this is a good place to give a shout out to your mom, who came with us and did a great job taking photos and videos, and I really enjoyed having your mom there too, because she got to talk about her connection to the park and bringing you as a young child to the park, and how that was meaningful to you and your family. And it just became clear to me that there's a lot of connections to the park in the community, and I could tell. Just being in the park that the community really reveres this park as a special place, and it was really cool having your mom there. So shout out to Amy for coming with us on this hike.

Tyler:

Yes, yes. She She loves any opportunity that she can take to come and hike in the park. So she had a blast that day. Yes,

Jessica Bowser:

I did too. Let's move on to the Laurel branch trail. This is also a really neat trail. Do you want to explain what this trail is like?

Tyler:

Yeah, so the Laurel branch trail, it's, it's another trail that it's under a mile. It's also about probably three quarters of a mile, about a mile and a half, if you wanted to do an out and back round trip on it. It's difficulty level would probably be more considered easy. Also, there's, there's not a ton of elevation gain for the majority of the trail, the the end that connects up and kind of intersects with the geological trail does, does get a little bit steep as it starts to head down into the gorge, but for the most part, this is a trail that doesn't have a ton of elevation gain, and it's a beautiful trail. So it does fall Laurel branch, very scenic. So it's following Laurel branch throughout the the entire hike. You're kind of crossing back and forth over it, and you get to see some more of those sandstone Cliff facings. Walk through Rhododendron thickets. If you hit it at the right time of the year, if you come between June and July, you can really see just the beauty of those Rhododendron thickets that you're walking through. One of the kind of the, I guess, geologic highlights there, and this is kind of where the geological Trail and the Laurel branch trail kind of kind of come together and almost intersect is an area called the notches, which is kind of like this, almost like a mini Canyon. And it's a beautiful area right through there. So again, you're kind of looking up at the sandstone Cliff facings, and it is just a sight to behold, to be able to kind of walk through that area. So it's a trail that you know, if you're looking for a very scenic hike that you don't want to go on, a hike that's overly strenuous and then it's not too off long, the Laurel branch Trail is a great option for somebody to take. Yes,

Jessica Bowser:

and I think I was telling you, when you and I hiked part of that trail, that no matter how many times I try to take pictures of it like no photo does it justice, because you just have to be there in person to see it. And if you are going to try to photograph it, make sure you bring your wide angle lens, because that place is so big, like you can't even fit it into your viewfinder on a camera if you're planning to use a camera. So it's just a really neat place. And one thing that I like about the Laurel branch trail on the other end of the trail, it connects to the Lake Trail, which goes partially around Laurel lake. It sort of follows the water's edge, and I think that's also a really beautiful area. Laurel Lake is a place where people can fish and paddle, and there's also some really amazing cabins that are built right on the lake. And from the Lake Trail, you can see those cabins on the other side of the lake, and it's very peaceful. It's very pretty. I like that part of the park as well.

Tyler:

Yes, absolutely. And that's a good example of, like we said earlier, being able to connect trails and make a longer hike. So, yeah, it leads right into the Lake Trail. I mean, so you can pretty much start out basically right there near the amphitheater, right behind the visitor center, and get on the Lake Trail, and then head on down, and then you're just go right on into the to the Laurel branch trail. And so that whole, that whole area, like you said, is beautiful through there.

Jessica Bowser:

Yes, it will take your breath away another trail that will take your breath away for different reasons, because it's difficult, is the prospector trail, and this is a really cool trail. It connects to some other trails that we're going to talk about as well. But what are some of the highlights of the prospector trail?

Tyler:

Yeah, so like you said, this is where we start to talk about trails that have a little bit of a more challenge to them. If you're looking for something that's that's a little more challenging to kind of be able to get down into the gorge a little bit more so the prospectors trail, it would be considered a moderate to difficult level trail, just depending on on the section that you're on, it begins more moderate, and then kind of progressively gets a little bit More difficult and technical. As it becomes more rocky, it's a mile and a half trail. So if you if you did kind of an out and back on it, it'd be three miles. But I will say my favorite hike to do in the park loops this trail in with with several other trails. So kind of my favorite kind of hiking loop to do would be to start on the prospectors trail, follow it its length, then get on the Laurel branch trail, and then go up to where it intersects with the geological trail. Hike that back to the Overlook trail, and then back to the same parking lot where you started the prospectors trail there at the towers tunnel parking lot. I know that's that's not just. Prospectors trail, but it's a big cog in and that's a pretty popular loop for people to do. And so the prospectors Trail is a huge part of that this. This trail really allows you to kind of get down into into the heart of the canyon. So it, you know, it does not take you down to the canyon, to the canyon for and we'll talk about another trail that does that here in a little bit, but it kind of gets you under that first cliff line. And so you're, you're kind of right along, right in, in the the heart of the of the canyon, and you know, again, you get some fantastic views of just kind of the the cliff facings, the cliff line that you know you're, that you're standing up on when you're on the Overlook trail, and now you're down below it, looking back up at what you were standing on top of. And it's just, it'll, it'll take your breath away from multiple different reasons, like you said. And you also have beautiful rhododendrons, if you hit them at the right time of the year, um, you've got some huge hardwood trees, so some, some old growth forest trees down there, which is are also very beautiful. And so, you know, this trail is great to hit any time of the year. There's no wrong time to do this trail, but in order to really be able to experience just kind of how impressive the canyon walls are, if you hit this trail during the early spring or late fall or winter, you can really see, you know, what kind of geology you're you're walking, you're walking along, which is extremely impressive. It is a more challenging trail. So this kind of goes back to what we're talking about. You you really need to be prepared. You want to make sure you have good footwear, plenty of water, snacks. It's a great trail, and it is a trail that, if you're looking for something to give you a little bit more of a challenge this, this is probably the trail for you.

Jessica Bowser:

I tell folks all the time who are experienced hikers that they will really love these trails, but also not to miss them, because if you are only going to the park to see the overlooks you're missing half the park? Yes, yeah. I think some of the more interesting and fascinating and beautiful features are closer to the bottom of the park, because that's when you're looking up at those huge sandstone cliffs, and you're also getting closer to the water. And I think that it just gives you a different perspective, that the people who are standing at the top looking down aren't seeing, but you do need to be prepared, and you do need to have a certain fitness level to be able to complete these hikes safely. Yes,

Tyler:

absolutely, it's, it's not, it's, it's not a hike that you know you just kind of want to necessarily go and do on a whim, if you don't have a fair amount of experience hiking, you know, you want to make sure that you are prepared with those things that we talked about earlier. But it is, is a great hack that, like you said, allows you to have a perspective of the park that you're not going to get from up on top, where you're just kind of up, you know, around the different areas along along the road, or some of these other areas where, you know, it's easy to access, maybe an overlook, but you're never going to get that same kind of perspective on the park until you kind of venture down into, into some of these trails that are down in the canyon. Yeah. And

Jessica Bowser:

that also just reminded me, if you're the type of hiker who likes solitude, that's where you're going to find it. Because even though breaks can get busy at times, especially in the summer, most folks are on some of the most popular trails, and a lot of people don't venture down the more difficult trails. So if you're looking for an opportunity to experience the park, without a lot of other people on the trail. This is kind of the way to do it. Absolutely.

Tyler:

It's, it's, it's a beautiful trail, and it'll definitely, definitely challenge you as far as what to expect along the hike.

Jessica Bowser:

The last trail that we're going to share is the bottom of the brakes trail. Now when I met you and your mom in the park, both of you laughed at me when I told you my experience on this trail. I had hiked it the day before we met, and my plan was to hike this trail and then hike a couple other trails all in the same day. And I looked at the mileage, I'm like, Okay, 2.4 miles. That's not bad. It was rated extremely strenuous, but I'm an experienced hiker, so my thought was, oh, I'll knock this out and an hour and a half or so, and then I'll have plenty of time to do these other trails I want to do. No that plan went right out the window. It took me most of the day to do this 2.4 mile hike, and it kicked my butt, and I loved every minute of it, I have to say,

Tyler:

yes, the bottom of the brakes trail is, is one of my favorite trails. But it is. It is definitely not a trail to take lightly. I think that people like the idea of of going down. Down into the gorge, down to the bottom of the gorge, and, you know, getting down to the river without maybe really realizing what, what they're getting themselves into. Either, you know, they've not made the right preparations with water and and food or footwear, or they're just, you know, not at that level of experience to be able to to handle a trail like that. So it is beautiful. It's the wonderful trail, but it's it's a trail that it is extremely strenuous. You do have to be cautious and prepared. And this is one of those trails where you know an ounce of prevention is going to go a long way. Go go into this trail prepared for those people who do go on this trail, it is what a reward to be able to get down. When you get down to the bottom of the canyon there is stunning, you know, just kind of views along the way down you're again, and you you start out, you actually have to walk along the prospectors trail for a little less than a mile before you reach the the beginning of the bottom of the brakes trail, and then when you branch off down to that, you know you you continue on down. So as far as the elevation gain, you know you're going about 800 foot down into the gorge. And that's 800 foot you got to come back up for for people who maybe haven't quite thought that through and think they're just going to knock this trail out. It can knock them out pretty quickly, if they're not prepared for that. You get great views. You're, you're down there at the river, so you get to, you know, you're, you're at the the opposite end of where most people get to experience the park. You're at the bottom, and you're getting views that, you know, a large majority of the visitors to the park are not going to get, and it's extremely rewarding. So you're following along the Russell Fork River, you're still walking along some lower Cliff lines that that are down farther on the canyon wall. And so you get just some beautiful views and just an experience that you know those people who are at the at the top of the park are not they're not going to get that same experience

Jessica Bowser:

if you own trekking poles, like, do yourself a favor and bring them. Yes, you're really going to need them. My feet were killing me at the end of this hike. It's a very rocky terrain. You have to watch where you're putting your feet all the time because you're not just hiking on a flat trail, you are literally stepping and practically climbing on rocks the whole way. And that's what makes this trail so difficult and so strenuous. When you think about like a normal one mile hike, this trail makes one mile feel like three miles. It's

Tyler:

a 2.4 mile trail. You may be thinking, well, I can, I can do 2.4 miles in in a couple of you know, two three hours. No, you need to give yourself, I would say four to six hours, depending on your level of of experience and capabilities as a hiker. If you decide to do this trail, this is not a trail that I would suggest most people, especially you know, those who might not be as experienced of a hikers, to not do on their own, to make sure you've got a partner. Make sure you know the make sure that somebody knows where you're at. Because you know, there have been, you know, several instances over the years of hikers having to be rescued, or, you know, first responders kind of go down and assist hikers out. This is a trail again, where that preparation becomes important, but it is, it is so worth it. I mean, if you're, if your hiking ability is, you know, allows you to be able to do a trail like this. And for those people who are maybe just wanting to to see the river, but you know, then that's a reason they're considering this trail. But they don't maybe feel like they are capable of hiking this difficult of a trail to see the river. There are other options within the park to be able to access the river the there's a trail outside, kind of outside of the park proper, down the garden hole road called the camp branch trail. That's, it's a trail. It's, it's a little less than a mile. That is probably the, the easiest access as far as hiking goes, to be able to access the river, and you're right at the base of the towers. So for somebody who maybe can't, doesn't feel, don't feel like they can really complete the bottom of the brakes trail safely, another trail, like the camp branch trail, or access in the river, maybe from the Ratliff whole day use area. Those are good options too. And you can still be able to get down to the Russell Fork River and see that perspective on the park. That's

Jessica Bowser:

a great point. But for those who are up for the challenge, this is a very rewarding hike. Part of the trail as it sort of parallels grassy Creek. If you're on the trail and you're looking down towards the creek, there is a waterfall that you can see from the trail. Now, you're still quite a ways up, so you're not going to be able to actually get to the waterfall, but it's really beautiful to be able to see it from so high up. The bottom of the trail does get to the point where grassy Creek meets Russell fork, and that area. Is really stunning, because you see the river passing by all of these high sandstone cliffs. When I was there, there were wildflowers everywhere. It was super peaceful. I ate my lunch on a rock next to grassy Creek, and I really took my time, not just because it was difficult, but because I was stopping a lot to take in the views, and I was stopping a lot to take photos because it's so stunning, and there's just a lot to see and a lot to take in. So I would definitely recommend you give yourself five, maybe even six, hours. I think that's how long it took me, but I was a little on the slower side, because I was stopping to take a lot of pictures. But definitely give yourself plenty of time for this one, and you will be rewarded. It's a wonderful hike.

Tyler:

Absolutely. It's one of my favorites in the park. It's a great if you're up for a challenge. This is a great hike.

Jessica Bowser:

Tyler, where can listeners find more information about the individual trails at breaks? Park.

Tyler:

So the park has a has a great website that has information about all their hiking trails. So brakespark.com and you can go on there and get kind of summaries about what to expect on each trail, how long they are, what you know about how long to expect, what the color blazes are for that trail. So there's great information there. You can also find that same information in paper form at the Park Lodge or at the Visitor Center. So those, those are the the best two resources, either in the park or online to be able to get more info about what hiking opportunities are available at the breaks.

Jessica Bowser:

Yes, and I will drop a link to the individual hikes from the breaks Park website in the show notes, Tyler, let's talk about Pine Mountain Trail. This was a trail that I have seen on a map before, but I had no idea what it was, and once I met you and learned more about it, I was truly impressed by the effort that is going into building this long distance hiking trail in southwest Virginia. So let's, let's dive right into the Pine Mountain Trail. So tell us a little little bit about the trail.

Tyler:

So the Pine Mountain Trail has, has been around since 2002 is kind of when it's inception. Was it's a trail that runs along the crest of Pine Mountain the the northern terminus is actually right there, right just right outside of the breaks Park in Elkhorn city, Kentucky. And then the trail follows the ridge line back Southwest and towards Cumberland Gap. And so it's not stretched all the way to Cumberland Gap yet, but that is the direction that the trail is going and, you know, it's right there at the park. And part of the trail actually runs through the park, not the park proper, but the park boundary also extends to the other side of the gorge, and part of the Pine Mountain Trail actually runs through some of the park property. So, you know, it's right there and really, really close access to the breaks, but it is a trail that it kind of weaves back and forth, in and out between Virginia and Kentucky, so it's right along the border. Currently, there are about 60 miles of developed trail, and again, with the end goal being to get on down towards and link up to other another trail down at Cumberland Gap, National Historic Park. And so when the trail is completed in its entirety, there will be about 120 miles worth of trail. So it's roughly about 50% completed, but it's also a link in what's known as the Great Eastern trail. So the Great Eastern Trail, which is kind of like almost a a sister trail, I guess you could say to the Appalachian Trail. It runs from Alabama to New York, so it goes through nine states using existing trails that have already been built to create about an 1800 mile long distance trail that kind of mirrors as like a smaller version of the Appalachian Trail. And so a lot of a lot of different sections of that trail are still in progress of being built along, like the Pine Mountain Trail. And so it's, it's a great opportunity for somebody who is looking for like a long distance backpacking opportunity, but also has great day hiking opportunities with it also,

Jessica Bowser:

yeah, I think it's interesting that this is a link in the Great Eastern trail, because most people have heard of the Appalachian Trail, but not everyone has heard of the Great Eastern trail. And like you said, it's almost like a sister trail, but I have plenty of my listeners who are long distance hikers and have completed the Appalachian Trail, and then they start looking around for, okay, what other long distance trails can I hike? And then that's usually when they start doing research and stumble across the great easterner trail. So it's pretty cool that this is going to be a part of that trail. And I also think it's really neat to have. A long distance hiking trail in that section of Appalachia, because it's just so beautiful down there. I mean, I know I keep saying that over and over again, but you really need to experience it, and then you'll understand what I mean. It's really breathtaking. You and I did hike a section of this together recently, so it's really cool to see that this is coming together. I also think it's important to note you mentioned that it is within the boundaries of break center State Park. However, it's not very easily accessible from that area. Do you want to explain why

Tyler:

part of the trail does navigate through park boundaries, that the terminus of the trail is not within the park and it's not, it's not within Park proper. Again, this is all on the other side of the gorge, the undeveloped side of the gorge. It's not a trail that would be easily accessible as far as somebody who is, you know, looking to spend time in in, you know, breaks Park proper. You have to go out of the park down to Elkhorn, city, Kentucky, and then follow an access road to the trailhead down there. When you start from there, you do as you're hiking along the trail in back end up back in park property. The access point to the trail on that end is is not within the park. And

Jessica Bowser:

I just wanted to point that out so that people don't think they're going to step out of their cabin or their campsite at breaks and get right on Pine Mountain Trail. It's it's not quite that easy, although I believe there are some plans in the future, potentially to create some infrastructure that will make it easier to access this trail, right? Yeah,

Tyler:

I think so. I think there are plans that are being discussed to try to make that side of the gorge and the Pine Mountain Trail more more accessible with with kind of the park proper. So that would be, that would be something great to see in the future, if

Jessica Bowser:

it was possible. Yes, however, it's it does still mean that breaks is an excellent base camp. If you are planning to hike Pine Mountain, you've got all the amenities that you need within the park, there's a restaurant in the park, there's lodging, there's other facilities, and then you also are still in close proximity to Pine Mountain Trail. It's also a really great day hike, because a lot of people, they're not through hikers, they don't necessarily backpack, and that is fine, because you can still access Pine Mountain Trail and do some wonderful day hikes. So Tyler, I know we're going to talk about the section of trail that that you recommend, but before we get into that, do you just maybe want to explain why Pine Mountain Trail is unique compared to other long distance hiking trails?

Tyler:

Yeah. So I think for for a lot of its history, you know, the Pine Mountain Trail is known amongst people who live here. But, you know, up until recently, people outside of the area, it wasn't a very well known trail, and it's starting to get more well known. Some of the some parts of the trail are being now available on the far out app. And so it's starting to get a little bit more of attraction with hikers from from outside the region. But one of the thing that that makes it unique, if you've taken a hike along the section of of the Appalachian Trail, you may run into just you know, numerous hikers throughout the day, depending on what section you're hiking on, you may hike on the Pine Mountain Trail and not see anybody else for the entire day. You know, if you're looking for a hike with with solitude, or just to kind of be able to get away and be able to have a hike just kind of on your own, the Pine Mountain Trail is is a great opportunity to do that, because it has kind of been a hidden gem for for a lot of its history. And it also provides, you know, a very good challenge. I know that some people have, they've hiked the entirety of the Appalachian Trail and then have hiked the Pine Mountain Trail, and would put, you know, the level of difficulty of the Pine Mountain Trail right up there, or even beyond maybe what they've experienced on the Appalachian Trail. So it provides a great opportunity for somebody who's looking for, like you said, either, either maybe a day hike with some solitude or a challenging backpacking opportunity. It has opportunities for for every type of hiker also,

Jessica Bowser:

okay, Tyler, so you and I hiked a section of Pine Mountain Trail that I just thought was amazing. Do you want to talk about the section that you would recommend for people who are interested in doing a day hike, for like, folks who are visiting breaks and just want to take a drive over to Pine Mountain for the day?

Tyler:

Yes, absolutely. The section or trail that that you and I went on that day is one of my favorite areas, kind of in the whole area. It's known as birch knob. So it's one of the, one of the highest points along Pine Mountain, and it is the highest point along that particular stretch of trail. It's most easily accessed from just outside of the town of quintwood, Virginia. So you do. Again, like you said, you kind of have to drive away from the park just a little bit to to be able to access this. And then when you're outside of the town of Flint wood, you access birch knob by Forest Service road. And so, and it's it takes a little bit of a drive to get up there, about about 30 minutes once you leave the town of Clint wood, but it is a beautiful area. So it's kind of the the big draw to that area is probably the observation deck that's there. So there's a large observation deck where a fire tower used to be used to stand that provides just really great, you know, 360 degree views into, you know, farther out into Virginia. You can see out towards, you know, Mount Rogers and white top. And that direction you can look down into Tennessee, look out into Kentucky. And there, there are several other states that you can see. Also, it's really neat. The The tower has, you know, different markers of what states you're looking at depending on which direction you're looking. So it provides a just a breathtaking 360 degree Vista for you to be able to view. Like you said, there's, there's a great hiking opportunities there, because it is one of the access points to be able to drive up and access the Pine Mountain Trail. So the observation tower is not, you know, part of along that trail route, but from the parking lot, you can either go up to the tower, or you can go along the Pine Mountain Trail. So there's a sign that takes you along the Pine Mountain Trail. You can really do a great day hike just from there. And again, people who aren't interested in backpacking can can really experience a lot of what the Pine Mountain Trail has to offer just within maybe the first couple miles out the Pine Mountain Trail. So you you pass one of the the shelters that the Pine Mountain Trail conference has built to provide, you know, lodging for people who are long distance backpacking through there. So you kind of get to see one of the Shelter Structures, which is really nice. You can hike on down a little farther, and can almost get a little bit of a history lesson of the area where you and I stopped, and kind of hear a little bit of the history of the area and the families that used to live up on the mountain. So there's a lot of old homesteads along the ridgeline of Pine Mountain, and can even see a remnant of of some of those homesteads. We you and I saw part of a rusted out bed frame that's still left from from a long time ago. And then you've also got, as you head down the trail, you'll see a kind of a side trail to an area called Genie falls, which is a beautiful waterfall that is about around half a mile down, down a side trail which is pretty steep. So that's, you know, you would want to make sure you were prepared to do that. But when you get down about half a mile along that side trail, you get to see the beautiful Jenny falls, which is just an awesome waterfall. So there's a lot of options to be able to kind of take just a short day hike and an experienced observation tower, and you can experience all that without having to be a backpacker. You can access all that from right there, within just the first little bit of the of the trail. From that area,

Jessica Bowser:

this is a really cool section of trail, because there's so much to see. And do I mean, you and I, we weren't even there that long, and we saw a lot. And for anybody who's ever driven on a Forest Service road before, you probably already know that sometimes they're not very well maintained. And I think the first time I drove up to birch knob, which was many years ago, I was wondering if my little car was even going to make it up the trail, but, but they have made improvements to the road, and it really wasn't that bad this time. It does take longer because it is unpaved and you're moving a little bit slower, but it didn't, it wasn't that hard. I think anybody's car would make it up, wouldn't you say? Yeah,

Tyler:

I would think so. I'm like you, there's been many times in the past where I've went up it, and it's, it's been a little rough, but they've done a lot of great work and gravel work on it. And so that road, as far as forest service roads go, it's probably one of the better maintained ones you're going to find, kind of like just driving on a gravel driveway, and it just does take, like it takes a little time, it's a few miles back in there, but even the drive up to it is beautiful.

Jessica Bowser:

Oh yes, absolutely. I mean, really, it's all about the journey on this particular drive. So I enjoyed that drive going up. I think probably there will be people who have heard of birch knob. I'm sure there are folks listening who have been up to birch knob before. That observation tower is really awesome. You get up there and you can see five different states, and it's. Really cool to be on the top of the platform and to stand in front of, front of the sign that says Ohio, and look out into the distance and know that that's Ohio out there. Like it just seems crazy to me, especially maybe because I live in Northern Virginia, but being up there and seeing Ohio and West Virginia, Kentucky, it's like, wow. It helps you realize that you are really high up, but it's just, it's so cool to see all the mountains in the distance, and it's a beautiful sight.

Tyler:

You can really just look right down the ridgeline of Pine Mountain. And you're basically looking, you know, you're looking at the route that the Pine Mountain Trail follows. So, you know, for somebody who is long distance backpacking, that when they get up there and maybe take a side trip to go up to the tower, they're looking back over either everything that they've just hiked or everything that they're getting ready to hike. And so you just, you get a really, really great experience up there at just kind of looking at the beauty of the area from from a bird's eye view.

Jessica Bowser:

Yes, and the other thing that impressed me, and this is going to sound silly, but for somebody who hikes a lot, it makes a big difference. There were really nice, clean pit toilets in the parking lot,

Tyler:

yeah? And, like you, and that's, that's something for somebody who's outside a lot, that that's a big deal. I mean, that's something that you think about. For somebody who hikes a lot, it's a very well maintained area that is definitely well worth the day trip, even if you're not a long distance backpacker,

Jessica Bowser:

absolutely. So I would highly recommend, if you're staying at breaks park, to make that drive to Clint wood and go up to birch knob, especially it's sunset. Yes, sunset is unreal up there, if it's a nice day, oh my gosh. I mean, the first time I went up there, I went up for sunset, and I have never seen anything so beautiful. The colors in my photos are just popping. It's amazing. Just make sure you have a headlamp, not the flashlight in your phone. People, right? Like, we get a real flashlight or a headlamp. You probably won't really need it because you're just coming down the stairs. And then, you know, the parking lot is really close to the base of the stairs that goes up the tower. But you know, just to be on the safe side, always be prepared Right, exactly, absolutely. And then from the parking lot, where the pit toilets are, you hop right on Pine Mountain Trail. I really thought that was a beautiful trail, Tyler. I mean, I told you and your mom as we were walking along that it's really gorgeous, and I really love the rhododendron too. I think Rhododendron might be one of my favorite native plants, and not just when they're in bloom. People get excited about Rhododendron blooming in the summer, but I think I appreciate them more in the winter, when the entire forest is brown and gray, except for these green Rhododendron I just think they're stunning, and they're really huge on that trail.

Tyler:

Yes, yes, they are. I mean, that trail you've got, you know, you can walk through sections where you're just walking through Rhododendron thickets, whether you're hiking through bloom season that's beautiful, or if you're hiking through in the off season, kind of when in the winter or late fall or early spring, you get that little burst of color that is a nice little change of pace, instead of walking through complete brown the whole time. So it's a beautiful area. It's one of my favorite places to go hiking. I've hiked several parts of the Appalachian Trail, and you know, the Pine Mountain Trail, to me, I would pick it, you know, any any time compared to to the Appalachian Trail. And I love the Appalachian Trail. So that's saying a lot for the Pine Mountain Trail.

Jessica Bowser:

Yeah, I think I fell in love with it instantly. It's amazing. And I also want to give props to the Pine Mountain Trail conference for the shelter that they built very close to the beginning of that section of trail. It's really nice. I mean, they, whoever designed it, did a really nice job on it. And if anyone has hiked the Appalachian Trail, even if you've just done a day hike and gone past a shelter, you probably have a concept of what a shelter looks like. You know, three walls with one side being open, usually, sometimes a fireplace. But let's be honest, folks like those things are really old. They were built a long time ago. And this one is relatively new because it was built recently, and it's great. And the fire pit outside is constructed very well, and it just is so inviting, like it, even if you're not a backpacker, it makes you want to spend the night there. It

Tyler:

reminds you of, like, of a small almost, kind of like a cabin. It's just, it's really neat, and it is for the type of shelters that you expect on a long distance backpacking trail, it is definitely a step above and it can hold several people. I mean, that particular shelter, there are a couple other ones farther on down the trail, but that one has two stories, and so it can hold multiple people. And then, you know, along with, with the shelters, I mean, there's, there's camping opportunities along the trail. So it's, you know, there's the Pine Mountain Trail has, has a lot to offer. And again. And it's just it's been kind of this hidden gem for so long, it's kind of starting to gain more of attraction with with hikers from outside the region, which is good to see.

Jessica Bowser:

Yes, and I think if you have hiked other trails before, this is a nice change of scenery, because as we walked along the trail, we were seeing wildflowers all along the way. I think I actually spotted wild azalea that were the flame orange color. And like I asked your mom, is that orange Azalea? She's like, Oh, yeah, we get those up here. I don't see those anywhere else. So I was really excited to see that. It's it's a different type of landscape, and it's not what you expect to see in other parts of Virginia.

Tyler:

Pine Mountain has a lot of different habitats that are very unique to this area, that you don't find in a lot of other areas, different plant and animal species that are, you know, fairly rare or uncommon for those listeners that you have, that are, you know, big into into the ecology of Different areas. The Pine Mountain area is, is a great kind of area for just ecological richness. And the Pine Mountain Trail goes right along through all of us. So it's really, really just a fantastic, fantastic opportunity all the way around,

Jessica Bowser:

where can listeners find more info about the Pine Mountain Trail.

Tyler:

So the Pine Mountain Trail is is managed by the Pine Mountain Trail Conference, which is a group of volunteers that do an excellent job in maintaining the trail, furthering the trail towards its goal of making it down to Cumberland Gap, building the shelters. And so you know, all this is done by by a group of volunteers. And so, you know, mentioned that any anybody who is looking for an organization or group to kind of volunteer with and get involved, the Pine Mountain Trail conference is a great organization to do that with, because, again, this trail, there's so many positive things happening around it that, you know, the more people who want to volunteer, you know, the better, but they do have a Facebook page, which is where, you know, if you have questions about the trail, or, you know, want to, want to find out, maybe current conditions, or something like that, messaging the trails Facebook page is probably the quickest way to get a response. And then there's a website available to be able to go and, you know, get information about not only the trail, I mean, you know, the different trailheads, but the mountain in general, talking, again, more about the ecology and background of the mountain, but where to access those trail heads. There's a there's a small store where you can kind of buy Pine Mountain Trail merchandise. And so between the website and the Facebook page, listeners, hopefully should be able to find out just about anything they want to know about the trail

Jessica Bowser:

and Tyler, I just want to say that I'm really thankful to you, because I know that you are a member of the Pine Mountain Trail conference. So I'm thankful to you and the rest of the folks who have put their talent and their energy into building the Pine Mountain Trail, because trails like this wouldn't be available without volunteers like you and the rest of the folks who have been working on this since 2002 so thank you to you for doing that, and I hope people who are Listening will consider paying it forward and volunteering someplace near their home on trails, so that we can all enjoy these trails for generations, different

Tyler:

trails and and our outdoor areas, a lot of the things that we're able to go out and do and enjoy would not be possible without volunteers. So I'm very thankful for all the volunteers who have came and and laid the groundwork for this trail and have continued to help it develop into what it is today. There's, there's a lot of wonderful people that have put a lot of a lot of time and labor into that, and it's truly been a labor of love for them. So very, very thankful for

Jessica Bowser:

that. Tyler, how can listeners connect with you?

Tyler:

So the best way to get up with me, if you have any questions about any any of the trails we've talked about would be at Tyler, Mark Mullen, so t, y, L, E R, M, a r, k, m, U, L, I, N, s@gmail.com, so that would probably be the best way if anybody had any questions and wanted to reach out. Perfect

Jessica Bowser:

and of course, the websites to breaks Park and to Pine Mountain Trail conference will also be in the show notes, so those links will live there. And Tyler, thank you so much for being a guest on Virginia outdoor adventures. I was really excited to talk about hiking at breaks, one of my favorite places. I encourage everybody to get to the breaks, because if you haven't done it, you're not doing yourself a favor. Get out there and experience the awesomeness of the breaks, and please use it as a base camp for all of the other amazing opportunities in Appalachia, including the Pine Mountain Trail. So thank you, Tyler, for being a guest. Thanks

Tyler:

for having me on Jessica. I really enjoyed it, and I enjoyed our hikes the other day.

Jessica Bowser:

I hope to see you again soon at the breaks. You. Thanks, yeah, absolutely.

Tyler:

Had a great time. And it was, it was a great day, adventure

Jessica Bowser:

on adventure, on you.

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