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Virginia’s Adventure Towns: Onancock – Paddling, Boating, Fishing, and Camping the Eastern Shore with Mary and Bill Burnham, Burnham Guides (Ep 64, Part 1)

• Virginia Outdoor Adventures Podcast • Season 5

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What if you could explore a destination that's off the beaten path yet brimming with natural beauty and cultural treasures?

Discover the hidden gem of historic Onancock on Virginia’s Eastern Shore as we set sail with ecotour guides Mary and Bill Burnham, owners of Burnham Guides paddling shop.

Our guests share their insider knowledge of this waterfront town with historical architecture, a thriving arts scene, and the perfect backdrop for outdoor adventures like kayaking, biking, fishing, and sailing.

Paddle your way through history and nature on Onancock Creek, where Mary and Bill guide us on a memorable kayaking experience, discussing the area's rich wildlife and historical past.

The town's off-season charm is anything but dull, with wildlife watching and lively community events like oyster roasts and art strolls.

Join us as we unravel the magic of Onancock, where history, art, and nature come together to form one of Virginia’s Adventure Towns. Let’s Go!

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Mentioned in this Episode:

Connect with Mary and Bill:
Burnham Guides I 757-710-5137 I mary@burnhamguides.com

Experience Onancock
Eastern Shore, VA

Holly Cove Charter Sunset Tour with Captain Chris Guvernator I 757-650-5097
Onancock Sailing Adventures with Captain Tom Bunino I 757-710-3658

1890 Spinning Wheel B&B
The Charlotte Hotel & Restaurant
The Inn at Onancock
Maurice Inn

Onancock Eateries
Onancock Shops
Onancock Art Galleries
Onancock Events and Attractions
Onancock Outdoor Attractions

Virginia Water Trails – Eastern Shore


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Contact show host, Jessica Bowser:

jessica@virginiaoutdooradventures.com

Jessica Bowser:

From the Blue Ridge Mountains to the Chesapeake Bay, Virginia is a mecca for outdoor travel and adventure. Virginia outdoor adventures Podcast is your local guide for hiking, camping, kayaking, travel and so much more. Get the information and the inspiration to plan your own adventure right here in Virginia. I'm your host. Jessica Bowser, what if you could explore a destination that's off the beaten path, yet brimming with natural beauty and cultural treasures? Discover the hidden gem of historic o nancock on Virginia's Eastern Shore as we set sail with eco tour guides, Mary and Bill Burnham, owners of Burnham guides paddling shop, our guests share their insider knowledge of this waterfront town with historical architecture, a thriving art scene and the perfect backdrop for outdoor adventures like kayaking, biking, fishing and sailing. Paddle your way through history and nature on Onancock Creek, where Mary and Bill guide us on a memorable kayaking experience discussing the area's rich wildlife and historical past, the town's off season charm is anything but dull, with wildlife watching and lively community events like oyster roast and art strolls Join us as we unravel the magic of Onancock, where history, art and nature come together to form one of Virginia's adventure towns. Let's go. Mary and Bill, welcome to Virginia outdoor adventures.

Mary Burnham:

Thanks for having us. We really enjoyed hosting you here in Onancock for kayaking and boating excursion.

Bill Burnham:

Yeah, thanks for having us, Jessica.

Jessica Bowser:

What do you love about on Hancock?

Bill Burnham:

It's natural setting. It's kind of framed by the three branches and harbor of onacock Creek. I remember our first visit here, we really enjoyed the walkability, and then we slipped into the water in our kayaks and paddled out towards the bay, came back into town, and just saw this kind of picture perfect waterfront setting, with the marina, some old buildings that are now a restaurant, a working waterfront, and it just seemed it really captured us.

Jessica Bowser:

Can you describe for people who have never been there,

Mary Burnham:

sure it's a small historic port town, founded in 1680 has about 1200 full time residents. The the downtown is a mix of restaurants, galleries, and then the rest of town is tree lined neighborhoods spanning the centuries. So it really feels like you're walking through distinct eras, from colonial to Queen Anne to mid century craftsman homes. And for us, the focal point is the wharf, with its Marina, boat ramp, kayak launch, and our little kayak shop, which is in historic steamboat Ticket Office built in 1906 nancox, situated on the eastern shore of Virginia, Midway. So it makes it a perfect base camp, if you will. We're exploring the entire shore.

Jessica Bowser:

Yes. I think its location is really key, isn't it? About halfway between Cape Charles and Chincoteague,

Mary Burnham:

exactly. Yes. And we have all the amenities visitors could want, dining, restaurants, things to do, shopping and lots of art.

Jessica Bowser:

Absolutely, this town really impressed me. And I think what I really loved about it was that it's not as crowded as Chincoteague and Cape Charles. I feel like most of the tours go to those two locations because they're just quicker to get to. But onacock is not that much farther away, and it's less crowded, and it has this wonderful small town vibe going on that's very artsy. It's beautiful, and it's got all the same amenities. So why not go to an Hancock

Bill Burnham:

I agree, you know, talking about the vibe, it is laid back. I think the water has a lot to do with that. It also can be kind of lively. On a Friday night, several restaurants and bars would have live music. I will also tell you it can be as quiet as a church on a Sunday afternoon, and at the same time, it can be lively and vibrant with parades and second Friday art strolls and street closings. So we have a little bit of everything.

Jessica Bowser:

Yes, you definitely have a little bit of everything and a whole lot of adventure. So let's dive into the adventure side of things. I really want to talk about the outdoor recreation opportunities that are in and around town. Now, both of you are owners of a local outfitter, so can you describe some of the water activities and other outdoor recreation opportunities around town?

Bill Burnham:

Yes, our kayak shop, as Mary mentioned, is in an historic building on the waterfront. We provide kayak rentals, bike rentals, and then we offer three or four different types of guided kayak tours. Our intro tours is a two hour trip up the branches of the creek into the center parts of town that. Kind of mixes history of onacock with some of the shoreline, natural features that are typical of the bay. And then we'll go farther afield. We'll shuttle boats to Chesapeake Bay, locations where we can go out into the salt marsh, and then, of course, trips to the barrier islands on the seaside.

Mary Burnham:

I wanted to mention a special package that we have developed. We call it the Eastern Shore sampler. People who want to come spend 234, days, they'll choose their lodging and dining, and then we take them to a different paddling location each day on Hancock Creek barrier island. And we even go up to Chincoteague, and we do paddle with the ponies up there.

Jessica Bowser:

That sounds lovely. I'll bet that's a really popular package. Yeah,

Mary Burnham:

it is. And we'll even, we have a partner who does hang gliding. We can do hiking, and even a wine tasting at Chatham vineyards. And

Jessica Bowser:

you also have bike rentals at your shop, don't you?

Bill Burnham:

We do. They're the beach cruiser types, really perfect for going around town. Nothing that you would take out on a serious bike ride, but certainly a fun and interesting way to see different parts, different neighborhoods and that sort of thing.

Jessica Bowser:

Yeah, I think that's really lovely. If you want to just park your car at wherever you're lodging and not have to move it again. You can absolutely do that if you have a bike and and really, things are pretty walkable anyway, it would just get you around a little bit quicker, correct? Okay, so you and I, well, the three of us went paddling recently, and we had a lovely little excursion, didn't we? We

Bill Burnham:

did that was our typical two hour Creek tour, and it was a lovely trip. Weather really worked out. Oh, the

Jessica Bowser:

weather was beautiful. Anybody who listens to this podcast already knows that I had to reschedule this trip once before because I mentioned it in a previous episode. So I felt very lucky that the rescheduled trip fell on a week that was just It couldn't have been more beautiful. It was warm, it was sunny, it wasn't too windy. I mean, it was just really nice. And that creek tour that we did tell me if I'm wrong, but isn't that part of Virginia water trails? Isn't there like an official Virginia water trail that goes through the creek?

Bill Burnham:

There is the water trail, if you find it on the water trail website describes a little bit of paddling around town and then follows the main brand or main stem of o nancock Creek about four and a half miles to the Chesapeake Bay. And that's another feature. I think it's important to mention for people with the skill and the stamina to make it that four to five mile one way, and then turn around and come back, there is a beautiful natural area preserve about 900 acres of salt marsh right near the mouth of the creek, you know, protected by the state, only boat accessible. So it really adds kind of a wild feature to an Creek.

Jessica Bowser:

It really does. In fact, if I come back to an amcock, I think that's a trip that I want to take with you. It's not a trip that I would take on my own. I'm only bringing this up because I did an episode about Virginia water trails in the past. So people who are looking for those Virginia water trails, we'll find this area on that map. But I think it's worth noting that that longer trip, while it looks really tempting, because it's beautiful, there's a lot of safety things to consider, and it's not for beginners. Am I right about that

Mary Burnham:

true? And we also do. I should mention, in spring and fall, we do guided kayak camping trips, so from three to five days for people who want more adventure. And there's certain islands we can camp on, and we do all the gear, all the food, and set up camp and everything

Bill Burnham:

and leave no trace. Pack in, pack out.

Jessica Bowser:

Yes, more adventure. Yes, please. That sounds like something I'm going to be scheduling for next season. I really would love to do that. I think kayak camping is a phenomenal experience, but if you don't have the gear and you don't have the experience to do it, going with experience guides like you two is a wonderful option,

Bill Burnham:

we agree, and especially these these trips with the right weather conditions are often viewed as intro to kayak camping. So we don't pile on the miles. We work with you on how to pack your kayak properly, how to make sure it's balanced. And then we'll work on everything from setting up camp to cooking, and you can participate as much as you like, or just let us serve you dinner.

Jessica Bowser:

Do either of you have any favorite memories from a past, either paddling trip or kayak camping trip

Bill Burnham:

related to the Chesapeake Bay, there have been some really special early early morning experience. Experiences. So this is pre dawn at a time of year when water men are out working, and in the dark, they may have a spotlight on their boat. They may be pulling crab traps. Their motors are not so loud that you're you're jolted awake, but laying in the tent listening to the boat, putt, putt, putt. To the next trap, kind of peeking out my tent to see. And it was one guy on a fairly small boat, kind of silhouetted by the light on his boat. I just kind of laid there and watched him, and he had no care in the world that there were three tents on this island. And I just felt like I was waking up to a Chesapeake day, Bay day,

Mary Burnham:

and then coffee. And then coffee,

Bill Burnham:

always coffee.

Jessica Bowser:

There's always space in the kayak for those little added pleasures, right? Always, yeah, that does sound really lovely. And we did see quite a few crab traps, although I think the time of year we went out maybe less than other times of year, right, correct? And we saw oysters. And what I really enjoyed about your paddling excursion is that you didn't just stick me in a kayak and take me down the creek and back. You pointed out so many different things, everything from wildlife and nature to, you know, the different industries in the area. So we looked at the oysters. We were talking about crabs and watermen. And then you also had a history aspect to your tour as well. You were pointing out the different houses that were on the creek and and other structures and what the history of the town was. And even before we got in the kayak, while we were still in the shop, you showed me this really old framed photo of the town to get an aerial view of what Onan cock Creek looks like, I think is really important to understand the rest of the town and the history and how it got to be the way it is today. And that really put it in perspective for me, so that as we were going through the creek, I could kind of understand why certain buildings and houses and things were where they are and why that was important, and what that meant in the history of the town developing over the centuries. So you're not just getting into a kayak and going on a short little paddle, you're getting an entire history tour and wildlife lesson from Bill and Mary.

Bill Burnham:

Thank you. That's the goal that we we strive for when we take people out.

Jessica Bowser:

So what resources are available for someone who wants to kayak, boat or fish but doesn't own their own gear?

Bill Burnham:

So we, I guess, for better or for worse, we're basically the place you go to for your kayak, your paddle, your life jacket you can rent. We do paddle boards and bikes, as we'd mentioned outside of that there are kayaking is not for everybody. So they're the charter boat services that I think we're going to talk to about in a little bit. There's not so much in terms of fishing, unless you're self sufficient on that line. We have three or four. Think actually four kayaks sit on tops specifically for anglers. So if you brought your pole, we might be able to get you some bait, and we can certainly outfit you in a kayak. Do you, Mary, do you want to mention the fishing tour? Yeah, we

Mary Burnham:

do have a local fisherman who offers a guided fishing trip on the creek, great local source of knowledge that's fully outfitted poles, kayak, everything. There are fishing charters are mostly out of Wacha preg, not so much at ONA.

Jessica Bowser:

And I believe there's also some boat charters and rentals as well, right?

Bill Burnham:

We do have for from the recreational standpoint, or just the scenery and getting out out the creek. We do have a sailboat charter, and then a more of a power boat charter. Those are really good for people who do want to see the wider where the creek enters the bay, and kind of get a sense of just how wide and spacious the one Creek is as it as it gets closer to the bay, I think from our we did a charter with you on the sailboat, and the impression of like getting halfway out the creek and all of a sudden seeing it open up to almost a mile wide always surprises People. Yeah,

Jessica Bowser:

it is a little it does come as a little bit of a surprise. And I will say that I had two completely different experiences on the bow charters. I mean, I went out with Chris, who does Holly Cove charters. We did a sunset cruise, and that was spectacular. I mean, just unbelievable. The colors in the sky, the colors on the water. It was a fabulous day. I mean, we weren't even out there that long because we just wanted to see the sunset, but oh my gosh, it was so beautiful. And and then the next day, I went with you on ony Hancock sailing adventures with Captain Tom, and that was completely different, too. Was the middle of the day, but it was a sailboat, so it's just a completely different experience. You're on a different boat, you're moving at a different pace. You know, you're talking about different things. And everybody who took me out, whether it was you guys or on a boat or anywhere else in town, shared the town's history with me and pointed out, you know, different things that they thought were significant or important for me to know. And even though everybody pointed things out, everybody had something to add to it that I hadn't heard from anyone else. So as you know, you get to know the folks. They share all these different things, and by the time you leave, you feel like you're leaving with a greater understanding and appreciation of the entire town.

Bill Burnham:

Yeah, yeah. I heard some stories on Tom's boat that were quite interesting that I hadn't heard before, especially related to some of the history of the houses, which he knows a lot about. So yeah, two different, very different experiences, but

Jessica Bowser:

also very quintessential. Oh, nancock. I felt like, you know, it's not too often that you get to go on a boat, unless you have a friend who you know has a boat. I don't know. My experience is when I go someplace and getting on a boat is, you know, the thing to do. It's either one of two experiences, either you're paying a lower ticket price, but you're getting on with like 50 other people, which I don't particularly love, or if you're, you know, chartering a smaller boat, usually it's cost prohibitive, or it's, just really expensive. But in Onancock, it wasn't either the prices were affordable and it felt like a personalized experience, and that's what I really loved about it. I felt like it was very unique compared to other experiences that I've had

Bill Burnham:

as a waterfront community with direct access to the bay, one of our strong draws as our town Marina. It has 14 slips full electric and water pump out services and probably most importantly, fuel and during season, which could run from April to about the end of October, the Marina is staffed. It's a huge draw for cruisers, people who take week long trips around the bay. They may do a couple ports on the western shore, then cross the bay and do a couple ports on the Eastern Shore. We're using usually one of those stops, and then the recreational boaters that put over Adam Hancock boat ramp is another big draw to town. So on a busy summer weekend or late fall weekend when the weather's nice, you could have, you know, 20 or more boats put in, and they're doing their fishing, they're doing their run out to the beach on the bay. So it's an important feature in our town. Yeah, and

Jessica Bowser:

I'll say that I saw people coming in and out of the wharf the whole time that I was there, either they were refueling or it seemed also like people will boat into town and then maybe spend a day or two before they get back on their boat and move on someplace else. For the folks who didn't get to see the same aerial photo of the town that I saw, could you describe where the town is situated and its location on the Chesapeake Bay, sure,

Mary Burnham:

we're on the Eastern Shore, which is a peninsula that forms the Chesapeake Bay. It's formed by the Chesapeake Bay and the Atlantic Ocean. It's a natural Deep Creek, and that's why it was chartered in 1680 as a colonial port for the import and export of goods. And so we started in 1680 with sailing ships, schooners. And then the steamboat era came. Then the railroads came be. This was before there were any roads. So the town was accessed by water before it was accessed by road. Yeah,

Bill Burnham:

if you were to think about it from an aerial point of view, the main street, Market Street ends literally at the water. The area in front of the town on the creek is what we call on a harbor. And from there, the creek breaks into three branches that kind of wind their way up through the neighborhoods. So you start with the harbor, if you were then to turn and head west the again, four to five miles, the creek slowly widens up, and it really does take several deep bends, so you could be approaching the first bend and not see any further. You come around that bend, and all of a sudden, another VISTA opens up. And I've always thought of the creek is two different creeks. There's one that's close to town, with its sheltered tributaries harbor, and then the other half of the creek towards the bay that has a more open water feel. Something

Jessica Bowser:

that I found really charming about the town are the homes that are all along the creek and throughout the main town. And honestly, I don't think I've seen a more beautiful town, as far as the old homes. You could walk through town all day and and just admire the architecture and the layout. It's It's spectacular, and I believe that's probably why there are home and garden. Garden tours in town as well too.

Mary Burnham:

Yeah, we have a, we do have a spring Home and Garden Tour. That's part of the Virginia statewide garden tour. We also have a Christmas homes tour coming up. Four to five homeowners will open their homes to the public. The architecture is, you know, like I said, spans a century. So we go back to the 1700s Queen Anne style of the 1800s up into like mid century craftsman like Sears kit homes that arrived by railroad 100 years ago. So yeah, that's really fascinating little mix of architecture

Bill Burnham:

from a kayak, you can see two, two different eras of the town's development. You can see the 1700s you can see the post world war two kind of middle class America, and the homes actually reflect that. During the heyday of shipping, the captains built these huge like Queen Anne's, as Mary said. And then post World War Two era, this other neighborhood that developed on the other side of the central branch just kind of represents, to me, like the middle class coming into home ownership, coming into vehicles and everything. So it is something I like to point out on the tours, not sure everybody gets it but or appreciates it, but I'm glad that you did. Oh, I

Jessica Bowser:

absolutely appreciate it. I loved it. In fact, some of these houses are massive. It's really fascinating to hear how some of them started smaller and got bigger. And you know, we're talking about a period when the kitchens had to be built separate from the rest of the home in case they caught fire and school houses being built, you know, in the yard. And it's so interesting. I just find it so interesting. So, yeah, I think other people would too. I would encourage folks to, if you can get to a nancock during some of the home tours, I think it would be worth it to plan a trip just around that, honestly, because otherwise you're going to get there and you're going to see these houses that go, Man, I wish I could go into one of those, and then you'll have to come back. You might as well just plant it around one of these home tours. Actually, I think that's what I'm going to do. I really do want to get into them, because they're they're phenomenal. There's one historic

Mary Burnham:

home you can visit, and that's car place, which is the home of the Eastern Shore Historical Society, and it is a house museum. It's 18th century furnishings, authentic, and you can go and visit that. And they have a colonial herb garden outside. You can actually pick things if you want, if you need some rosemary for your cocktail, you can pick that and take it home. I

Jessica Bowser:

saw that I did get to visit her place, and that was an interesting building, and it was beautiful out back where I guess they have weddings and other events. And I did stroll through the gardens as well. So if you're out walking, that's a great place to just stroll through the outside, even if you don't go inside. But I would encourage you know, everybody to check out the inside too. One thing that I hear people say all the time is that there is nothing to do at the shore in the off seasons. But what do you two say to that? Yeah,

Mary Burnham:

well, actually, the shoulder seasons are great for bird watching. The fall migration, fall and spring migrations. On our tour that we did with you, we did see great blue herons, egrets. Not sure if we saw bald eagle, but that's pretty common. And then Bill, can you mention some of the birds that we see in the off season? Yeah, in the

Bill Burnham:

early fall, the shore birds start coming down the Atlantic flyway. And although this is not in on ACOG per se, it is one of the tours that we lead. So any a number of birds that are migrating from the Arctic area where they've been nesting, to Central and South America use our barrier islands to rest, to bulk up and feed and then catch when the time is right, that ideal weather pattern that they can just get blown down on their journey. There's, there's plenty of song birds later in the fall. It's not one of my specialties, but I always enjoy going out with birders who know a little bit more than me, and I certainly learn a lot.

Jessica Bowser:

Oh my gosh, yes, the eastern shore for birding in the fall is spectacular. I mean, it's for people who love to watch birds. It's heaven, honestly, because the Eastern Shore acts like a funnel. All these birds start flying down the coast to go south on their migration. And if they're following the coastline, which many birds do, they end up coming down the eastern shore, and then they get to the tip. And then they stop because they realize that they now have to cross the Chesapeake Bay, where it enters the Atlantic Ocean. And so they'll stop for a while and rest and refuel before, like you said, waiting for the right weather pattern or waiting for whatever birds wait for, before they decide it's time to keep. Moving. You know, we saw a lot of belted kingfishers, which don't migrate. They're there all the time. That was really awesome when we were paddling. But when I was not paddling, I was walking around the grounds at the historic school, and there's like a nature trail back there, and that's right on the creek, and all the trees were just full of migrating warblers. They were everywhere I saw. I'm not even gonna try to name them all, because there's too many, but I saw so many migrating warblers. It was like they were on they were there were just like crowds of them in every tree. And it was, it was awesome. And I think I thank goodness I brought my binoculars. I would never go to the Eastern Shore without my binoculars, and I had so much fun just wandering the grounds around the school and enjoying the birds in the fall. They're everywhere. They're just everywhere.

Bill Burnham:

That's great that you had that experience. The Nature Trail is a really special feature in the town, and you get to see the creek that you paddled from a different perspective.

Mary Burnham:

Winter brings the waterfowl, so we'll see things we wouldn't see in the summer, ducks, geese and even occasional loons up in Chincoteague, not here, but in Chincoteague, I believe tundra swan come through, and that's quite a sight, and snow geese

Bill Burnham:

and snow geese, if we're talking about other things to do in town during the shoulder season. It is, I firmly believe one of the features of an ANC is that we're a year round town. We're not seasonal. And so we can talk about the oyster roasts, live theater first run movies. We have a second Friday art stroll in which businesses stay open later, galleries and retail shops stay open a bit later, and then just a number of special events, ranging from we just finished a pumpkin carve in the town square, where about 320 pumpkins were donated, and then people were able to come in and carve them so huge family draw. We are the parade town on the shore. We do Christmas parades. We do Saint Patrick's Day. So I've often thought, you know, if you wanted to come for a specific event, that's easy to find the information on that online. If you wanted to just come and hang out and unplug, there's enough to keep you busy for a long weekend. Yeah,

Jessica Bowser:

isn't the artisans guild coming up Thanksgiving weekends?

Mary Burnham:

Yes, it is, and it's short wide, but a lot of the spots are in oncock and particularly at historic and Hancock school. So it's the Friday and Saturday after Thanksgiving, day people open their homes, their studios, their galleries, and it's self guided, and you just drive around and visit the artists in their habitat and hopefully buy something for a Christmas

Jessica Bowser:

gift. Yeah, I did get to stroll through the historic school, not once, but twice. The first time I just sort of wandered through on my own, and the second time, the executive director walked through with me, and she was pointing out the different rooms that the art, the artists set up in, and the different types of art that they do. I just think the whole Eastern Shore is so inspiring for artists. I mean, it just seems that the artisans are in plenty on the eastern shore, and I can see why it's such a beautiful place. It's such a laid back, slow place. I think if you're looking for inspiration, this is probably a really great place to be. And you can just see where that inspiration has created some beautiful pieces of artwork from the different artisans all up and down the shore.

Bill Burnham:

Yeah, the and the artisans tour is like the premier showcase for that. I've often, I've noticed the same thing that we tend to draw artists, and I often think the natural beauty has of the shore and on Hancock has a lot to do with that.

Jessica Bowser:

Join us next week for part two of this episode, where we discuss lodging, dining and attraction so you'll have all the resources you need to plan your visit to own Hancock Virginia Outdoor Adventures is inspired by and supported by listeners like you, which is why your messages and feedback mean so much to me. You can text me directly by clicking on Send me a text message in your show notes. I answer questions, respond to comments and share your feedback on the show never miss an update. Get even more information and inspiration by signing up for my newsletter. Click on newsletter, sign up in your show notes or visit Virginia outdoor adventures.com. Thanks for listening until next time. Adventure on you.

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