Two weeks ago, as I walked three blocks from my apartment to swing open the door of downtown’s newest dinner concept, I was hit with a familiar and rare energy. In South Bend it’s not often new things open—we enjoy waves of openings followed by droughts of sameness. I don’t know about you, but I think it’s easier to appreciate openings here—as opposed to big cities, where the pace of change is faster.
This new thing I’m talking about is Moonlighter.
A few years ago, Jenn and Mike Stone, owners of The Early Bird Eatery, approached me to design a brand. The couple had recently purchased the lower level of the Wayne Street parking garage as the permanent home for their restaurant. And because The Early Bird Eatery is a brunch spot, the building sat empty half the day. Their idea: create a brand that would host a variety of evening concepts: guest chefs, pop-ups, and perhaps their own menu someday.
And so the Moonlighter brand was born.
In 2022, there was a brief period featuring Poké Hale, and since, Moonlighter sat empty—until a few months ago, when Chef Brendan Barry (OttāRamen, Render) approached Mike and Jenn about starting an evening concept in their space. The couple had already begun thinking seriously about relaunching Moonlighter with Mike as chef—but the demands of Early Bird made it difficult for him to commit to executing a new menu on his own.
And Brendan, since Render’s closing in June of 2023, was looking for his next thing. For a chef like him in a city like ours, joining an already operating machine that still lets him cook his food is pretty special. And the collaboration made sense: both chefs cook food that is comforting, elevated, and decidedly “not tweezer food.”
They have been working on the menu for a few months now, Brendan taking ownership of the kitchen and recipe development with feedback from Mike. “I really wanted a meatloaf sandwich on the menu,” Mike shared. “And Brendan did a great job of executing it.” In addition to the meatloaf sando you’ll find dishes reminiscent of OttāRamen and Render with a comforting and familiar take—seared pastrami scallops, fried chicken bao buns, short rib birria gnocchi, and chicken noodle ramen.
It goes without saying that launching a new restaurant is a massive undertaking—it’s not surprising we don’t have new places opening all the time—and the lift expands well beyond the kitchen. It’s the seating, interior design, liquor license, brand recognition, website and social media presence, and front-of-house team. So expanding the hours of a space that is already home to an operating restaurant makes perfect sense.
But Moonlighter is a new concept—not simply The Early Bird Eatery with extended hours. It’s a different chef, a different menu, and a different cocktail program. And still, for fans of The Early Bird Eatery, the connection is clear and familiar.
As I walked in on opening night, Jenn and Mike stood at the front, warmly welcoming guests. Our server, the same who brings us breakfast every Sunday, was now dressed in a dark collared shirt and long apron. The drink menus, designed in the same color palette as the morning, trading the rooster for an owl, featured a limited wine list, select beer offerings, and craft cocktails led by mixologist Jen Hacker.
The dining room was mostly empty, save a couple of tables—quite the contrast from a typical Sunday brunch brimming with guests. “We’re glad we’re not really busy right now,” Mike shared. “It’s giving everyone time to figure out what we’re doing.”
A table of four came in and sat next to us. “Are you from South Bend?” they asked. “Yes, we live a couple blocks away,” we answered. We soon discovered they were in town for a conference at Century Center. Someone at their hotel recommended Moonlighter, so they came. Odd, I noted: out-of-towners accounting for a majority of the dining room on opening night.
The meal was fantastic, and the cocktails delicious (you really must try the meatloaf sando.) I left feeling grateful for Jenn and Mike who are thinking creatively about their space and how it might bring more life to the evenings in downtown South Bend.
Visit Moonlighter at The Early Bird Eatery on Thursday, Friday, and Saturday evenings.
