Highlight: Will Bosi climbing sport 9c or Adam Ondra bouldering 9A first?

In this podcast highlight, Tom Randall and Will Bosi discuss various aspects of Will's climbing projects, aiming to understand the mental process of walking away from a project. They also touch on Will's future plans for 2024 and whether Will will try a 9c route any time soon.

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Transcript

Tom (00:02)
Yeah, it's difficult. I think to begin with, when you have the last session and you know you're not going to do it, I really struggle. I'd be really sort of like, for probably half an hour or so, I'd be pretty down and frustrated. But it's kind of then, you have to, like what we were talking about earlier, reflect on all the positives. And especially, the majority of climbs, there are times where a hold or break or something happens, but the majority of the time it's a rock that's out there that's not going anywhere.

I'm always going to be able to come back at some point. So I've had all these positives. I've got closer. I know there's a I can do it go away I can train and come back even stronger. So it's kind of just focusing on the future rather than thinking about That's your present of not sending it Okay Yeah It's good to be able to say to people you have a sort of a clear defined process with it and

Yeah, I mean on that note actually, it reminds me because from the comp climbing, that was always the way of looking at it as well. There's another World Cup. So I didn't make finals, I didn't make semis, it's okay because there's another one. There's always another one. And that was the thing that I struggled the most with, was with the Tokyo Olympics when I missed the qualification in Toulouse, because it was like, there isn't another one, this was the only one. You'll probably never have that format again. And that was really hard. That one I didn't deal with very well.

Yeah, that's the thing, at least for the majority of comp climbing and for outdoor climbing, in general there's always going to be another chance to go back.

Yeah, OK. And.

question that we had quite a few of and I know even in the office at Lattice amongst the staff people are really interested in what... I'm thinking what on earth is this going to be? What type of oat cake do I really like? Now the question that lots of people are really interested in is what are your plans for 2024 because you've kind of been on a... you know...

bit of a rampage over time now and you keep just going like another hard project, another hard project so you must have some exciting things in 2024 roughly penciled in. Yeah very penciled in, not all of it but actually in four days on Sunday I'm starting my trip out to Vegas, so out to the USA and go and try sleepwalker.

trip it's I think almost two months and so yeah just going out basically to absolutely siege sleepwalker and I mean I obviously try the stand start first and then if I do that then work on Daniel Sitts start which is one of the sort of 5-9-8 boulders so that's like that's the main goal I guess at the start of the year and then yeah and it's nice to hear that you are getting around to doing that because I know when me you and Aidan sat down and did a podcast actually out there

the replica is, we talked about that back then, would this be something on your radar and it was? Yeah, I mean I think it's like probably one of the best looking hard boulders.

So I don't know if it's really gonna be my style. I'm actually not sure about that. It's very hard to tell how it's gonna climb from the videos, even with closeups of the holds and people describing it. But it looks amazing. And yeah, I've never climbed outside anywhere in America, so I'm very excited to go and sort of experience it. And yeah, I can't wait. And then I suppose for the rest of the year, it's very open currently. If I come back from that trip and it's still cold enough in Arco,

I'd go back for Excalibur for like a two week trip in sort of mid to end of March but realistically, I don't think that'll happen so either it goes really well I send Sleepwalker and then end up going back to try Megatron or something in April but yeah, I feel like that's probably not gonna happen

The one thing I do really want to do though this year is I would really like to get to Flathanger and check out Silents. I've never been to Flathanger firstly but also I just want to actually see how hard it is, it would be really interesting to know. Yeah, I think it's about time. It's like a world class destination, very hard climbing, loads of people go there to pitch themselves against these roots.

Yeah, I mean it must be super appealing to go and do that. Yeah, so I'm really excited for that. Yeah, a little bit longer those reels though. It is, but to be fair, I've had both Adam and Stefan have said...

because it's got the kneebar rest it's more like doing boulder problems and then rest so it should be better for me so The other routes that are like proper endurance routes. Yeah, I think I would get absolutely shut down on I think something like project big which would not be Yeah, well no long AC onsights No, no, yeah, I mean I'd love to do an AC onsight. That's a good goal for the future. Maybe just not a long one right now

that you can see every hole up to about three meters where the chain is. Yeah. Yeah, yeah. Yeah. Do you think that Adam...

Andra, will climb 9a boulder first or will you climb 9c route first? I saw this question and we're like, great question. That is a great question. Pitch him, head to head. I'm pretty sure if he wanted to he could climb 9a boulder. Okay. If you wanted to, could you climb 9c route?

The problem is finding one, because if it was to be in my style, I'd have to first assent it. Which is a big problem, because I don't think I would have the experience to grade it at that level. Looking at what there is currently, silence is probably the most in my style, which is a worry. And without trying it, I've got no idea. I'd like to think it's possible.

But I think it would be like, multi Year project, is how I've probably see it currently. Whereas Adam.

I'm sure if he was, I suppose, I'm trying to think of what would be the best one for him. But like, I mean, Terra Nova is absolutely desperate. Like, it potentially could be. I think the grading at that sort of top end of boulder needs still a lot of work and it's just going to take time for everything to come together. But I don't see why he wouldn't be able to. Like, he is fliffing amazingly strong. So yeah, I think if he dedicated to bouldering, he would do one pretty soon.

you have some crack knowledge. Yeah, I was thinking that was going to be funny. I'm kind of backing you a little bit on this one. In terms of refinement, you're in a...

better place compared to Tobano. For example with the crack stuff so it'll be interesting to see if you have any bits on that where you go oh yeah this feels like a little bit more within my skill set. Yeah it'd be interesting because I think the hardest moves of it are like the set up into the crack but they're like I think quite crimpy so I'm hoping that I'd be able to do them and then I'm hoping my crack climbing would be kind of good enough to like get through it.

proud if you're up there jamming, putting your jammy gloves on. Did you see me at the Sporty the Legends compo in Stockholm? I certainly did. I was getting sent screenshots of it and I was thinking, yeah this is going to work out well for Will for sure. And then watching some of the other beasts, they're just obviously such amazing climbers and having a really hard time. You realise how much of these things is basic technique.

Yeah, definitely after all the sort of sessions we've had, it makes a big difference.